Secondary warning system
Now we are going to discuss a different type of system. I am talking about a stand-alone system with no/ minimal wiring. I do not suggest removing your normal system but simply add this one. Separately of course. The reason for this is simple. When your system is deactivated by any means or triggered when you are home, you are going to need some way to figure out if it is indeed an intruder or just a false alarm (which happens more than you’d like).
A separate stand-alone system can confirm an intruder’s presence when it is activated in a pre-determined time frame in accordance with your main system. This does not have to be an expensive system. As long as it can run independently. For example, you might have 4 to 6 sensors outdoors and 2 or 3 indoors, when something triggers one of the sensors the alarm is activated, only now you are fast asleep and trying to recover from cuddling in your birthday suit, do you want to get up every 5 minutes to check outside only to find nothing? I didn’t think so.
Choosing a secondary system:
- As stated, this system should be a stand-alone system, separate from the main system. Take a look at the diagram in the previous post. Use this example to draw the diagram of your home again, remember to add your barriers and early warning system locations again before starting with the secondary system.
- Now you want to look at the entry points to your bedrooms. If you do have a burglar door installed in the passage, this will be the place to start. You want to know when someone is on the other side of that door. If not, then you want to know when someone is entering the passage. But be warned, if you have no burglar door installed to create time to activate an action plan, the intruders might be forced to react quickly. They will aim to silence the alarm and neutralize you as quickly as possible.
- Check for vulnerabilities. If you do have any windows or doors with no burglar bars, you want the secondary system connected to them or to be able to pick up if something comes through them. Even if your primary system is monitoring this space you still want the secondary as assurance. Remember the roof.
- Now follow the steps mentioned with the early warning system from step 5 to get the perfect system for your needs. Remember that these systems can easily be bought as a DIY system or improvised from any other devices you might have at home already.
- Finally, mount your secondary system’s home base right next to you or close enough to reach. Not the siren of course. The secondary system should not be accessible from outside your main bedroom or safe room. Except if you have a remote for the system of course. Carry the remote with you.
- Make sure you have a separate indicator to know when the system is active.
So now you installed window alarms on your windows or a cheap wireless infrared system at the most logical entry points in your home, and 5 to 15 minutes after you initially re-activated your main system one of these secondary alarms open fire with 60 plus decibels of pure irritation! Threat confirmed!!
This is just an example of course and you can choose whatever you like as your secondary system, as long as it is legal. Check before setting up those 12 gauge shells! So from here on forward it’s simple, the intruder is confirmed and you need to get your ass out of bed and attend to the problem, by activating your action plan, I hope!
How strong is your secondary warning system?
See also:
- Approaching your home (part 1 and part 2)
- Approaching the door
- Safe room
- Action plan
- Reaction unit
- Barrier 1
- Early warning system
- Barrier 2
- Secondary warning system
- Conclusion