Home defense

Secondary warning system

Secondary warning system

Now we are going to discuss a different type of system. I am talking about a stand-alone system with no/ minimal wiring. I do not suggest removing your normal system but simply add this one. Separately of course. The reason for this is simple. When your system is deactivated by any means or triggered when you are home, you are going to need some way to figure out if it is indeed an intruder or just a false alarm (which happens more than you’d like).

A separate stand-alone system can confirm an intruder’s presence when it is activated in a pre-determined time frame in accordance with your main system. This does not have to be an expensive system. As long as it can run independently. For example, you might have 4 to 6 sensors outdoors and 2 or 3 indoors, when something triggers one of the sensors the alarm is activated, only now you are fast asleep and trying to recover from cuddling in your birthday suit, do you want to get up every 5 minutes to check outside only to find nothing? I didn’t think so.

Choosing a secondary system:

  1. As stated, this system should be a stand-alone system, separate from the main system. Take a look at the diagram in the previous post. Use this example to draw the diagram of your home again, remember to add your barriers and early warning system locations again before starting with the secondary system.
  2. Now you want to look at the entry points to your bedrooms. If you do have a burglar door installed in the passage, this will be the place to start. You want to know when someone is on the other side of that door. If not, then you want to know when someone is entering the passage. But be warned, if you have no burglar door installed to create time to activate an action plan, the intruders might be forced to react quickly. They will aim to silence the alarm and neutralize you as quickly as possible.
  3. Check for vulnerabilities. If you do have any windows or doors with no burglar bars, you want the secondary system connected to them or to be able to pick up if something comes through them. Even if your primary system is monitoring this space you still want the secondary as assurance. Remember the roof.
  4. Now follow the steps mentioned with the early warning system from step 5 to get the perfect system for your needs. Remember that these systems can easily be bought as a DIY system or improvised from any other devices you might have at home already.
  5. Finally, mount your secondary system’s home base right next to you or close enough to reach. Not the siren of course. The secondary system should not be accessible from outside your main bedroom or safe room. Except if you have a remote for the system of course. Carry the remote with you.
  6. Make sure you have a separate indicator to know when the system is active.

So now you installed window alarms on your windows or a cheap wireless infrared system at the most logical entry points in your home, and 5 to 15 minutes after you initially re-activated your main system one of these secondary alarms open fire with 60 plus decibels of pure irritation! Threat confirmed!!

This is just an example of course and you can choose whatever you like as your secondary system, as long as it is legal. Check before setting up those 12 gauge shells! So from here on forward it’s simple, the intruder is confirmed and you need to get your ass out of bed and attend to the problem, by activating your action plan, I hope!

How strong is your secondary warning system?

Home defense

Barrier 2

Barrier 2

So previously I posted about the use of a Barrier and how to implement it. The reason for the first barrier is more of an emotional block to intruders. Then getting up to speed with early warning systems right after that does have a reason for it. When an intruder sees it fit to violate your first barrier, you know he means trouble. Thus you want to be warned of his presence, and that is where the “early” warning system comes into play.

But, what if this early warning system is triggered by nothing, or something ridiculous? Do you want to activate your action plan every second day? Come on, I know practice makes perfect, but that’s just ridiculous. So that’s why the second barrier, to create enough time to establish if there is an actual threat or not. And to give your response service enough time to get to your home, before intruders can gain access. They will need to get through the second barrier first.

What is a second barrier then? Simple, you already have them, or so I hope. Your burglar bars, at your front door and on your windows, for example, is your second barrier. Please pay attention to this, how easy can it be to trigger your alarm system, dash for a spot behind your sensors and wait for you to cool down before I make my entry? It happens, and regularly too.

How should your second barrier be implemented?

  1. Install strong and sturdy door frames at all entries into your home.
  2. Install a heavy, good quality, and strong exterior doors.
  3. Always have a burglar door installed with your exterior door, any slam lock system works best.
  4. Install doorstops or other mechanisms to prevent any exterior doors from being kicked in or opened after the lock mechanism has been disabled.
  5. Install or upgrade your burglar bars on all windows.
  6. Install electrical wiring, barbed wire, or any type of system that can prevent anyone to climb onto the roof.

Tips:

  • Avoid mounting barriers into wooden frames.
  • Rusted mounting bolts and torn welding needs to be replaced and repaired.
  • Gates and doors should operate smoothly and easily.
  • Choose the correct material and durability levels for your situation.
  • Burglar bars don’t have to be expensive or ugly. There are many ways to beautify burglar bars.
  • Check your current barriers for wear and tear (weathering).
  • A sliding barrier in your safe-room is great for escaping.
  • Make sure no-one has access to your front door. Keep all the spare keys safe.

How strong is your second barrier?